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With the arrival of fall and patches of pumpkins springing up everywhere, I am thinking of my family as they prepare to celebrate Thanksgiving. Canadian Thanksgiving is celebrated on the second Monday of October and, unlike the American version, has nothing to do with "the Pilgrims and the Indians". Rather, it is a celebration of a successful harvest. Since Canada is further north than the United States, harvest season takes place at an earlier time, which explains the timing of the holiday. At least, that is what we tell ourselves. Really, we are trying to be quietly different. If you know any Canadians, you may notice that they are typically fairly understated, humble people. Unless, of course, the subject of hockey comes up. Then we are sure to gloat about certain Olympic hockey victories over our neighbor to the south.

So, what do Canadians eat at Thanksgiving? Some of the usual suspects turn up - turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, pumpkin pie, and cranberry sauce, to name a few. When the first cans of pumpkin appeared in our grocery store, I grabbed an armful and loaded up our cart. Visions of pumpkin breads, pies, and muffins floated through my head. That is, until I reflected on my infatuation with choux pastry and, more specifically, gougères (cheese puffs). Last year I made two versions of these quick and easy appetizers, Sage & Gorgonzola Gougeres and Bacon, Cheddar Cheese & Scallion Gougeres. The slightly crispy outside gives way to a soft inside filled with whatever flavors you dream up. They work well as finger-food appetizers with a glass of wine or as a side to your favorite chili. This version does not boast any cheese, but the creamy, tender texture would make you think otherwise.

The recipe:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

In a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan set over medium heat, combine water, butter (cut into small pieces), and salt. Stir constantly and be certain the mixture does not come to a boil. Once the butter melts, stir in the flour. Stir quickly until the mixture binds together. Continue to stir for another minute, while the pot sits on the heat.

Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let the mixture cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Stir in 2 eggs, one at a time. Be certain that the first egg is fully combined into the mixture before adding the second egg. Add the canned pumpkin and minced sage. Stir to combine.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. You can either spoon or pipe the dough onto the parchment paper. If you decide to pipe it, use a ½-inch plain tip or just use a coupler. Each gougère should be 1 to 2 inches in diameter, and they should be spaced 1 inch apart. Sprinkle a few grains of kosher salt on the top of each gougère.

Bake, without opening the door, for 10 minutes and then lower the temperature to 375 degrees F for another 15 minutes, or until the gougère are golden brown and crisp on the outside. Pierce each gougère with a small, sharp knife to release the steam, which will stop them from becoming soft. Serve immediately. If the gougère lose their crispness while sitting, reheat them in a 375 degree F oven for 3 minutes.

Other gougères recipes:

Cookin' Canuck's Bacon, Cheddar Cheese & Scallion Gougeres
Cookin' Canuck's Sage & Gorgonzola Gougeres
Anne's Food's Jalapeno Cheese Puffs
Food Wishes' Black Pepper & Thyme Gougeres

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